Consumers find taste for Tongren matcha

In the rolling hills of Tongren in Southwest China's Guizhou province, tea terraces cascade down the slopes in neat green waves. During the picking season in early April, shaded gardens are covered with black netting to refine the chemical composition of the tea leaves, which will ultimately be processed into high-quality powdered green matcha.

For matcha, different from standard green tea, depriving the tea plants of sunlight before picking turns the leaves a vibrant green and increases the umami flavor.

The nets blocking direct sunlight also reduce bitterness and allow for the accumulation of sweet-tasting theanine, an amino acid that promotes relaxation.

After being harvested by mechanical pickers, the leaves are steamed and processed, then ground into matcha powder.

According to data released by the city's investment promotion bureau, Tongren matcha is exported to 54 countries and regions, including Japan, Europe and the United States. A variety of matcha products from the city — including cookies, pastries and even beer — are sold in markets across China and around the world. Between 2022 and last year, the sales volume of Tongren matcha products rose from 500 metric tons to 2,400 tons, while revenue climbed from 190 million yuan ($27.57 million) to 480 million yuan. These figures make Tongren the top matcha producer in the country by output and underline the city's progress in the development of mountain-specialty agriculture, the bureau said.

During his visit to Guizhou province in March last year, President Xi Jinping emphasized the need to develop modern, efficient agriculture with distinctive mountain characteristics tailored to local conditions, while cultivating leading industries with regional features and lasting market competitiveness.

Long hampered by a lack of branding, the strategy for promoting Guizhou tea has shifted toward innovation, the investment bureau said.

Tongren matcha has served as an engine of growth in this area. Fresh matcha leaves now fetch two to three times the price of ordinary fresh tea leaves, and tea-growing areas across the province are expanding cultivation.

Luoxiang, once a village where per capita annual income was below 2,000 yuan, has 96 households engaged in the tea industry. The largest single household holds 7.2 hectares, and the top annual household income exceeds 400,000 yuan.

Tea has also delivered ecological gains, transforming once barren hills and reducing soil erosion in the village by as much as 80 percent. Across Tongren, the tea industry has driven income growth in seven counties, benefiting 110,000 residents.

Contact the writers at liuboqian@chinadaily.com.cn